Framing a Gorter Print So the Colors Hold

Care & Framing

Framing a Gorter Print So the Colors Hold

Hang it away from direct sunlight, ideally on a wall that gets no more than a few hours of indirect light a day. Expect the conservation materials to cost more than the frame itself.

The short answer

Frame an Arnold Marc Gorter print with UV-filtering glazing, an acid-free mat set back from the image, and a sealed acid-free backing. Hang it away from direct sunlight, ideally on a wall that gets no more than a few hours of indirect light a day. Expect the conservation materials to cost more than the frame itself.

Why Gorter Prints Fade in Bad Frames

Light does the damage. Ultraviolet wavelengths break down the dyes and pigments in any printed image, and the process is cumulative and irreversible. A print hung opposite a sunny window can visibly shift within a few years. Gorter's palette makes this worse than it might be, because his landscapes lean on soft greens and muted yellows that lose their character long before they look obviously faded. The picture does not turn white. It goes dull, and dull is harder to notice until it is too late.

The second enemy is the frame itself. Ordinary cardboard mats and wood-pulp backing boards contain acids that migrate into the paper over time, leaving a brown edge and a brittle sheet. This is called acid burn, and it is separate from light damage. Both are preventable. The materials that prevent them are standard at any good frame shop, cost modestly more than the cheap alternatives, and make no visible difference to how the print looks on day one. They only make a difference in year ten.

Materials That Actually Protect the Print

Start with the glazing, because it does most of the work. UV-filtering acrylic or glass blocks roughly 99 percent of ultraviolet light, which slows fading dramatically. Museum glass adds anti-reflective coating and costs more. Regular clear glass offers almost no UV protection at all, whatever the frame seller says. The mat should be acid-free, 100 percent cotton rag or conservation-grade, and cut so the window opening sits at least a quarter inch clear of the printed image. A backing board of the same grade goes behind, and the package should be sealed against dust.

One caution applies to any reproduction. If the print was produced with standard dye-based inks rather than pigment inks, no frame will preserve it indefinitely, because the inks themselves are the weak point. Pigment prints on cotton paper are far more stable. It is worth knowing which you have before spending on framing, since the framing budget should follow the print, not the other way around.

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Where and How to Hang It

Placement matters as much as materials. A north-facing wall or any wall that never takes direct sun is the safest spot in most homes. Avoid walls above radiators or fireplaces, because heat and humidity swings cockle paper. Bathrooms and kitchens are poor rooms for works on paper generally. If the room is bright, UV glass buys margin but does not grant permission to hang the print in a sunbeam.

The frame itself is a matter of taste and does not affect preservation. Gorter was a Dutch painter of landscapes and cattle scenes working around the turn of the twentieth century, and his work sits comfortably in simple dark wood or gilded period styles. Keep the frame depth sufficient so the glazing never touches the print surface. A framer will handle this by default, but it is the first thing to check if you are fitting a print into a secondhand frame.

The frame that protects a print looks identical to the one that ruins it. The difference is inside.

Component Budget option Conservation option
Glazing Standard clear glass UV-filtering glass or acrylic, blocks most UV
Mat Cardboard or paper mat Acid-free cotton rag, window set back from image
Backing Cardboard or MDF Sealed acid-free backing board
Placement Anywhere, including sunlit walls Indirect light only, stable temperature

Framing options compared

Key takeaways

  1. UV-filtering glazing is the single most effective protection against fading.
  2. Acid-free mats and backing prevent the brown burn lines cheap materials cause.
  3. Hang the print where it gets no direct sunlight, whatever the glazing.
  4. Pigment-based prints are far more stable than dye-based ones, so check before framing.

Related questions

Does UV glass stop fading completely?

No. It blocks most ultraviolet light, which is the main cause, but visible light also contributes slowly over decades. UV glazing combined with sensible placement, out of direct sun, gives the best realistic protection. Nothing makes a print permanently lightfast.

Should a Gorter print be framed without a mat?

A mat is recommended for works on paper because it keeps the glazing from touching the image surface. A float mount with a spacer can achieve the same separation if you prefer a frameless look. Direct contact between glass and ink is the thing to avoid.

Can I frame the print myself instead of using a framer?

Yes, if you buy conservation-grade components separately. Ready-made frames usually come with acidic mats and ordinary glass, so replace both. The main skills are clean handling of the paper and a square, even mount, which a careful amateur can manage.

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Editions are made to order and shipped worldwide. Choose a format and a size, and the price you see is the price you pay.

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General art-historical background drawn from public museum records and standard reference literature. Pricing reflects Auvrique editions and is indicative only.